Happy to report that I survived the very long fast (it wound up being over 26 hours). Kol Nidre started at 6:30 and was okay. It’s the tradition at their temple to wear white for Yom Kippur. I didn’t know and showed up in all black. Oops. It ended around 9 and I enjoyed a quiet friday night with the OC (just kidding I watched the Tijuana episodes so you know there was drama). I wound up sleeping in on saturday morning and missing services and Rita went to a different temple because her daughter in law was reading from the Torah. She came back midday to rest and we headed back to services around 4. The final 3 1/2 hours were very long and we mostly repeated the same 10 pages over and over again. Finally it ended and everyone brought out their food. I usually don’t go to temple for the negilah but people had interesting snacks. Rita’s family had these ring shaped crackers, a half a bag of lays, and a tiny bottle of orange juice. For six people. I actually wasn’t that hungry during the fast this year probably because I slept a lot and was really thirsty when it ended but I had some crackers and two sips of juice. Ugh. Then Rita headed to her daughter in law’s birthday party which was in the opposite direction of where I was going. I walked about 10 minutes to the bus, stopping at kiosk to buy water and a granola bar. My friend Nora’s friend Yelena, who’s studying in Santiago, Chile, is visiting this weekend. Saturday night we met for dinner with Chamblee and Tzviete. Plan A was a cute tapas bar in my neighborhood but it was all reserved so we grabbed a snack at the bar (I totally advocated this) to tide us over before we waiting at Sarkis. Sarkis is where I went for my birthday dinner and it’s still so delicious. We only had to wait 40 minutes, which is great for a saturday night at a place that doesn’t take reservations and is hugely popular. We had a really tasty dinner (and even heard the birthday song twice) complete with wines from some of the vineyards I visited in Mendoza. It’s also super affordable and a chance to eat food with garlic! Hearing about Yelena’s time in Santiago and how it compares to BA was lots of fun and we swapped stories about host families and getting lost. Santiago is apparently smaller, safer, has a big subway system, so so food, and great views of the Andes when not blocked by smog. I walked home around 1, finally satiated and went to bed.
This morning it was raining and gross outside. I got up and had lentils for breakfast. Yelena and Nora were planning to hit up the San Telmo fair but with this weather, that was not going to happen. We wound up in a café in palermo and got a late lunch. We also talked about how hard it is to show Buenos Aires off to visitors. Things work really well when you least expect but the city, on certain blocks and in certain lights, is hard to love, especially at first sight. Nora and I both ordered yogurt-granola-fruit plates and mine came in way bigger bowls than hers, from ordering the exact same thing within an hour of each other! It was so weird but classic random BA. Since it was a rainy day, we did what all people do and went to the movies! There were some american movies out (Percy Jackson and Meet the Millers) but we decided to see Solo Para Dos and let me tell you it was fabulous. The movie theater was very American looking (#globalization) except you get an assigned seat when you buy a ticket and they schedule the theaters back to back so you can’t go in early to snag a seat. It’s a smarter system I think.
The movie was completely absurd: a couple on the rocks runs an all inclusive couples resort. The guy sleeps with the receptionist, the girl with a man alone at the hotel after his wife left him for sleeping with her two best friends and chaos ensues. There’s also a famous singer who pretends he’s never been to to the hotel before but actually comes every year with different women and is BFFS with the owner. His motto on women is “always lie, never tell the truth” and he flips his hair a lot. It was the perfect rainy day activity.
Hope everyone enjoyed their weekends!